July 19th, 2019
I left Boston on June 19th for
Chicago where our orientation was and the start of this whole adventure. That
was one month ago today, though months are a weird measure of time since some
have 30 days, others 31, and one even 28. Can you tell that pace of life is
slower here?
I
did pretty well on the test, but there was this story section I completely
botched by misunderstanding the directions (despite understanding the story),
so I didn’t do as well as I could have but on the vocabulary section I got 100%,
which hasn’t happened before. I am not going to post my test scores on the
internet anymore, since I don’t want those on here forever, but I did like the
sense of accountability. Plus my host mom keeps telling she is praying for me
to do well. If she knows I have a test (like I do every Friday) she will make
sure I don’t send too long playing with the kids and quiz me on my poems. She
always tells me that if she knew how to read English she would help me with
flashcards, but my solo active-review strategies seem to be working for
vocabulary.
After
the test today and lunch, one student jokingly asked our teacher if we could go
form a field trip. After explaining what a field trip was, one student suggested
jokingly we should go get ice cream. She agreed much to our surprise and we
practiced reciting our full performance, while passing our perplexed RD on the
street. We got to practice using our recent food and ordering vocabulary, but
to be fair we have been ordering ice cream since day one here. It was a nice
break from the monotony of class.
After
class and our weekly group meeting, we headed back to the library room in the
youth center for the opening ceremony of the library. There were a couple people
from the embassy there, along with the director of the youth center, the
country director from American Councils, and another NSLI-Y Tajikistan 2019
alum in addition to the one that founded the library. There was a ribbon
cutting, and students from ACCESS read aloud a Tajik book to the few younger
children assembled. A NSLI-Y student read aloud an English book, and someone
read a Russian one too. The student who founded the library along with the
country director and the folks from the library said a few words to the
students and other attending. I got a chance to talk to more students in ACCESS
one-on-one. Their English isn’t very strong, especially compared to the FLEX
alums (who have spent a year in the US) or the Study with US college prep kids
(who were all from Dushanbe and were clearly of a high SES).
The
paintings in the library turned out super nice. In the rest of the building the
painting, which I am sure was once bright like in the library room, was faded
to pastels from the sunny and peeling. It was a marked contrast, especially
with the library room’s new flooring compared to the well-worn concrete
(crumbling at times even).
Also,
I learned a bit more about the ACCESS program from the students as well. It is
a “micro-scholarship” that covers the cost of transport (many of the students
came from villages), books, and lessons in English. In most schools, they
normally have just two hours of English a week according to my teacher, due to
their block schedule, so ACESS gives a real chance to learn English. They have
class three times a week. There are in 11th grade (their senior year)
plan on applying to FLEX, which would let them spend a year in the US, going to
an American high school and staying with a host family. The ACCESS students also
shared some of their dream jobs in the future: English teacher, interpreter, entrepreneur,
businessman, lawyer, and dentist. ACCESS students are 24 students in one ACCESS
class. Most of the students in the ACCESS program who also going to “American
spaces” run by the US embassy every so often. It was nice to talk Tajik kids
again. We might be meeting up with them and some FLEX alum to play soccer
later. Since their English wasn’t super strong, I also got to practice my Tajik
with them. If I said a sentence in English that they clearly didn’t understand
I would say a simplified version of it in Tajik, which they usually understood.
One student even said I was good at Tajik!
One
thing we did with the ACCESS kids was give them “American names” just like we
had been given Tajik names in our class. It’s pretty common in languages
classes, but they didn’t do it in their English classes. They found it
hilarious, but it felt a bit wrong westernizing all of their names. Some names
students ended up with: Harry and Henry (formally both named Hussein), Molly, Danielle,
Phoebe, Alex, Isaac (which is actually a Russian name they have in Dushanbe),
Sarah, Hank, and others. I like sharing my culture, but I don’t like forcing it
on others. Right now I am trying to figure out what that looks like.
This
whole library has also forced me to think about what service looks like as
well, while being an American learning a language in a country with a very
different culture from my own. I worry about “white savior complex” and this
idea of Tajiks or for us to change them. I feel like “changing Tajiks is a
goal” is a simplified version of what we hear frequently when it comes to
talking about our interactions with Tajiks. But the alum who founded (not quite
the right word but close enough) seems like she included a lot of Tajiks
(especially FLEX alums) and tried to listen to a need in the community. It’s
still a tricky line to walk. Sorry I am not very good at articulating this.
It’s
hard to believe four weeks has already past. It feels like just yesterday I was
sitting terrified in the bus to waiting to be dropped off at most host family’s
home. I also have successfully written everyday, and today I hit 20,000 words,
which feels somewhat noteworthy. Also I was right about my family being more
mindful now that they know how much I understand. This morning my host mother
and her daughter in law were fighting about something. It was related to the
kids, but then they realized I was sitting at the table and switched to
Russian, before I got the full story.
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